Sunday 24 March 2013

Between Jobs with Heston

There are probably a lot of noble things I could be doing with 1 month off between jobs, but somehow I find most of my time spent in the kitchen - either making and ageing cheese, or trying out new recipes.  What can I say, it's relaxing.. and delicious.

The extra time has given me a chance to dive in even further to Heston's cookbook promising "classic home cooking", Heston Blumenthal at Home.  His fondue worked a treat in the past and wasn't terribly difficult.  But what about some of his other recipes?

I'm still reticent to try, say, his Szechuan Broth with Duck Dumplings, where the recipe begins with: "This has lots of wonderful Asian flavours. It requires a bit of planning and preparation - you need to start at least two days in advance in order to ice-filter the stock..." (Not sure what it says next, as that's when I turned the page.)  But there do seem to be a fair amount of more reasonable feats.

In the last week, I've tried out these three:
Haddock with leek and potato sauce (recipe below - definitely a winner)
Pea & Ham soup (this was good, but not worth all the time required for sieving!)
Crab Lasagne (deserves a separate post, also a winner but a labour of love)

Admittedly, "leek and potato sauce" sounds rather dull, but the taste was nothing short of restaurant-quality goodness.


The sauce was easy to make but tasted very complex.  It takes 30 minutes to make the sauce, +5 minutes to cook the fish - and meanwhile I made a carrot/potato puree and chilli broccoli as sides.  I doubled the sauce so I could freeze half for a future supper - fingers crossed it freezes well!

For leek and potato sauce:
50 g Peeled and finely sliced potato (approx 1 small potato)
10g Unsalted butter
35g Peeled and finely sliced onion 
160g Cleaned and very finely sliced leek (this was about 6 leeks for me, but depends on size)
1 bouquet garni (thyme, celery leaf (I omitted this), parsley, and bay leaf - tied with a string or strip of leek)
200g Fish stock, warmed
10g Whipping cream
10g Whole milk
Salt and white pepper (white pepper instead of black makes a big difference)

For the fish:
Groundnut oil (I used olive oil)
2 Haddock fillets (also could be cod or halibut) - weighing 150-200g each
Chives, tarragon, to garnish

For the leek and potato sauce, rinse the sliced potato under cold running water for 30 seconds, drain well

Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion and potato for 10 minutes, stirring regularly.  Add the leeks and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Add the bouquet garni and warm fish stock and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Remove the bouquet garni and liquidize the sauce before straining it through a sieve into a clean pan.

Add the cream and milk and warm through.  Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper and keep warm.

To cook the fish, heat a thin layer of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Season the fish fillets on both sides with salt and place in the pan.  After approximately 2 minutes, flip the fillets over, cook for 2 more minutes and remove from heat,

Place the fillets on warm plates then, using a hand blender, froth the sauce and ladle it around the fish.  Chop the herbs and sprinkle over fish.

And there you have it - a restaurant quality sauce in 30 minutes - exactly what you'd hope to create with a cookbook like this.  Heston also says it would be great on scallops - think he's probably right (he's rarely wrong... unless you count including his Szechuan broth recipe in his "classic home cooking" book.)

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